Don't beat your grass into submission with a club. A dull blade doesn't cut evenly, strains the mower, increases
the chance of lawn disease, and turns
the tops of the grass brown. Damage
and wear can also throw the blade
out of balance, resulting in excessive
vibration that is both uncomfortable
for you and harmful to the mower.
The blade doesn't need to be
knife-sharp, but you need to maintain
the cutting angle and remove nicks.
This requires sharpening the blade
once or twice a season and as
needed to repair damage from stones.
To get the mower ready for a new season or tuned up for better fall mulching, you should
remove the blade and lock it in a vice for sharpening and balancing, as shown below.
Before You Begin:
Drain the fuel from the mower into a clean container using a siphon hose, which is a handy
and inexpensive gadget available from hardware and outdoor power equipment dealers. If
you're careful about spills, you can tilt the mower to drain fuel into a bucket. Inspect the
blade carefully. If the blade is dull, but in good condition, you can sharpen it. However,
you should replace a blade if (1) the cutting edges have been severely damaged or are
worn to the point that the cutting angle is no longer obvious; (2) the blades are twisted; or
(3) the lift wing (the upward bending part of the blade opposite the cutting edge) is badly
damaged.
Never try to suck gas into a hose to start a siphon. To filter out any residue,
secure a clean cloth over a second clean container with a rubber band and
pour the fuel through it.
Tools and Materials:
- Siphon hose and clean container
- Heavy work gloves and goggles
-
Stiff putty knife
-
Lumber scrap
-
Socket wrench set
-
Bench vise or C clamps
-
Rotary blade sharpener accessory
-
Electric drill
-
Double-cut (medium-rough) flat file
-
Screwdriver, or 1/4-in. rod or bolt
-
Blade balancer
-
Replacement blade